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@@garybehun8841 if you make the front with the joint covered, the front and back are cut at the drawer width, the sides are the drawer depth minus the 1/8” thick covers or 1/4” less. This is the way to do it since the depth of the drawer can be off a bit and still work. The width of the drawer is more critical. The drawer width should be 1” less than the opening the drawer goes in. All standard drawer slides require 1/2” on a side. There is a bit of room for error, but only about 1/16”.

@@adammortensen8861 the bits set up with a 5/32” interval between fingers. The fixed bit has to be raised and lowered between the two cuts to match the fingers up. The adjustable bit can be set based on the wood thickness with the top and bottom fingers being a different size than the rest. More to do but both halves run on the same set up and get flipped to match up. Feel free to email me at ralph@woodcademy.com with any questions and I will answer them.

Does not sound like a bad thing! So glad you enjoy the video.

Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.

Thanks! I am happy you enjoyed them

My pleasure. Very glad you liked it.

I am happy that you found it usedful.

@@68644731 the blade in the video is fine, any ATB 50-60 tooth blade will work. UHMW will give you far fewer issues with melting as you cut than something like acrylic.

@@Woodcademy tanks Obrigado.

Ron, It really cannot be. The reason the head does not tear out of the MDF or Plywood groove is because the pressure foot is always applying pressure directly over the head in the groove so it can’t tear out. Rotating the arm would change the direction of pressure. You can remove the screw at the end of the bar and reverse the arm. But be careful about how much force you apply that way because the arm will be lifting the head without anything above it to keep it from breaking with too much pressure.

@@Woodcademy That explains it. Thanks

@@ronmarchelletta2423 you are welcome. And thank you for being part of our community.

Thank you very much! Be sure to like, subscribe and share, it does help a lot. And visit Woodcademy.com for more great content.

Thank you for the kind words. I should have more subs. But a lot of the video I do is for other companies, so my channel does not always get the content.

Huh? Not sure what you mean.

So glad you enjoyed 8t! Thanks for the kind words. Be sure to like and subscribe.

Thank you for the kind words! It certainly is easier to make custom profiles with one blade than three, but I have gotten excellent results with three blades. I lay down three layers of painters tape, cut the profile in them, then stick one layer on each knife so I am cutting the same profile on each.

@@Woodcademy That sounds like an excellent method. Thanks.

Thanks Richard. Remember that the setup for making a drawer box with the drawer face as a separate part is much easier, with just one setup for both sides of the cut. Making a box with the drawer face as the front of the box requires two separate set ups.

Now you don’t have an excuse to buy the new machine! Sorry!

I've not seen it, but it is not too surprising. Wood is biodegradable. Wipe the strips down with a solution of water with just a little bleach in it to kill any mold.

Ryan, My pleasure, I am glad you found it useful. Be sure to like, subscribe and share the video, it really helps me keep Woodcademy free for you.

@@Woodcademy will do!

Bill, very glad you enjoyed it! Please be sure to like and subscribe, it does help keep Woodcademy free.

Bill, good eye, it was either UHMW or a more generic nylon, I can’t remember. It was leftover pieces from some other project. Mostly did not want them to stick to glue.

It is a great bit to have!

Tool steel, which is typical for arbors. Arbors with attached cutters like this are typically stronger than the steel shanks that carbide cutters are brazed onto.

@@Woodcademy Sorry, i meant the inserts - i'm reading reviews on some of the $20 per 10 inserts, being really brittle. Any brand that makes quality inserts that you prefer.

@@rosskstar no worries! I have a couple of the SPE Tools insert cutters and I have not had any issues with the carbide. I have not found these to be brittle.

cool beans, i'm looking at SpeTool Carbide Inserts Heavy Duty Flush Trim Router Bit@@Microjig

@@rosskstar MicroJig beat me to it. No issues with SPE inserts.

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! You obviously got the “re-imagine” enough to see the possibility with a different bit!

Glad you enjoyed it! Best of the New Year to you and yours!

John, I am happy that you found the video useful. Be sure to subscribe here and remember that you can find lots of free CNC and ‘traditional’ woodworking content at Woodcademy.com

So glad you enjoyed it! Be sure to check out Woodcademy.com

Be sure to soak the oak well. Oak can be difficult to bend since it is brittle and has very open pores.

Interesting, where did you hear this? I work with a Chinese family, we made chopsticks like this for one of their family events and they did not mention that. Maybe a Japanese tradition?

If you are implying that these will cause rust on the pipe, that is only likely if they are left on the pipes. Since they are slit and easily pop on and off, there is no reason for them to be left on, so no issue.

Thank you for the kind words. I am glad you found it useful. Be sure to subscribe, and check out Woodcademy.com for more of the same type of content.

Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed it.

You are welcome! I am glad you found it useful.

Glad you liked it.

Thanks! Glad you liked the video.

If I recall, I simply cut a 1/4 x 1/4” groove along the lower edge of all the parts. Set the parts on top of your 1/4” plywood, trace the inside, and add 1/4” all the way around to fit the bottom.

I am pleased that you enjoyed the video.

No comment necessary, but they help the SEO. Thank you for you kind words.

Thank you! My pleasure.

Thank you, Glad you enjoyed it!

It is not a bungee cord, but there is a decent stretch. You do not need too much stretch because you can set the hooks where needed on the cord, so you can create the length of tie down you need.

Welcome aboard! Lots of free content on my Woodcademy.com website as well!

I started by ripping either 3/4” or 1” thick stock into 1/8” strips. The starting thickness just needs to be wider than the 3/8” and 1/8” wide rips we cut the first glued stacks into.

just wanted to be sure,THANKS,Bb @@Woodcademy

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The Freud 24-106. The link is in the description: amzn.to/3YQvADy

Retro, sorry, I missed what you were asking! At the 3:10 mark I an using a standard 14 degree dovetail bit. It needs to be 14 degree to match the angle of the Butterfly bit. The width of this one was 1/2" at the widest. If you stock and spline are thicker, you may want to use a wider dovetail bit for the groove or you can make multiple passes with this one as I did at about 5:00. amzn.to/3KR11rv

My pleasure. I have used insert tools most of my professional life, but they are not well known in the hobby side of woodworking.